Lessons in Koicha and making the perfect matcha at home

Practicing anything as a skill is an art and perhaps my favorite way to pass the time. I began drinking matcha regularly before the many varieties we see today hit shelves in cafes and supermarkets and even though the trend seems like matcha is everywhere now, in reality the shrinking number of matcha farmers are struggling to keep up with a confluence of surging global demand and low production due to climate change damaging tea plants.

This means less access to the ideal high-quality ceremonial matcha, distinguished by its vibrant green color, smooth texture, and sweet umami flavor, making it perfect for traditional tea ceremonies where it is enjoyed plain and hot.

Unfortunately, I am one of those Americans addicted to an iced beverage no matter what season or time of day, and honestly few things are as comforting as a velvety smooth matcha latte.

First came the tools. A bamboo whisk called a chasen, a Kuse Naoshi which translates to "whisk rester" and is meant to hold the whisk and maintain its shape, a chashaku or traditional bamboo scoop meant to measure and transfer matcha into the tea bowl by gently sifting, a chawan (tea bowl), and most importantly, the ceremonial matcha.

koicha

usucha

My favorite is from Ippodo, the mellow Ikuya and umami of Wakaki create a gorgeous texture that blends beautifully with milk, fruit, lavender, and of course just simply water. I make a koicha, or "thick tea" in Japanese, which is a traditional preparation that is thicker, creamier and sweeter than the more common usucha or “thin tea.” It requires more matcha powder and less water, resulting in a syrupy consistency, and is prepared by kneading the matcha with a bamboo whisk instead of the vigorous whisking that creates usucha's foam. 

I love the intricacies of tradition and appreciate so much that we are able to learn from and create our own versions, but the worldwide shortage means I will drink less, while I savor even more.